Issue 245

Issue 245


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Strange old thing, the human brain, when you think about it. That lump of pink stuff, all smug up there in its boney penthouse, controls everything we do and everything we are. Each aspect of our personalities, our skills, our moods, wants, needs and ambitions formed over decades of unique conditioning, a beyond complex arrangement of synapses and neurons acting as an ever evolving blueprint we get to call ‘me’.

Woah. Deep intro, right? Apologies to those expecting some light hearted surf chat (could mention the weather here) but I’ve always found it mildly fascinating how much a love affair with the ocean seems to be able to shape the way a person lives their lives.

So, however you’ve wired yourself up over the years, if you’ve ended up here, you must be doing something right. You’ve dedicated a fair old chunk of that organic arrangement to standing up on a surfboard and sliding around on a lump of sea water. Nice one, it wasn’t easy. But you can’t help it, each time your body delivers a dose of serotonin back into your swede, it keeps you coming back for more, further cementing this surfing lark as a permanent part of your own blueprint. Fun ain’t it.

Feel special yet? Good, because you are. Not many people get this far, and for those that have, we create this. A pile of recycled trees covered in vegetable ink, just for you. It’s been carefully crafted by like minded folk, who just so happen to have wired themselves in a way that means we get as much of a chemical kick from putting this together, as we all do mucking about in the salty stuff. And long may it continue.